Cilgerran Castle is a 13th-century fortress high above the wooded Teifi Gorge near Cardigan, its two great round towers surviving from a stronghold that has drawn artists for centuries, Turner among them. The castle belongs to the National Trust but is cared for by Cadw, and it is open, unstaffed and free to enter. Visitors can climb the tower steps onto the walls for views along the river, and dogs are welcome on leads at ground level. Reviewers single out the giant wicker figures in the grounds. There is no parking at the castle: leave the car on the road in the village a few minutes' walk away, or in the lower car park by the river, which regulars say has toilets and picnic benches but a steep, narrow approach. Tips from visitors: the village shop and pub are close by, and the toilets at the castle open only when it is staffed.
