The Carneddau and Glyderau are the mountain ranges either side of the Ogwen valley in Eryri (Snowdonia), 21,000 acres that the National Trust acquired from the Penrhyn estate in 1951, with nine peaks above 3,000 feet and Tryfan, where Edmund Hillary trained before Everest. At its heart is Cwm Idwal, Wales's first National Nature Reserve, a glacial hollow whose rocks helped Darwin understand the Ice Age and whose ledges hold Arctic-alpine plants including the Snowdon lily. The 3-mile Cwm Idwal walk from Ogwen Cottage is well made and suits most walkers, the walk around Llyn Ogwen is easy going on a well-laid path, and scramblers head up Tryfan and the Glyders. Reviewers praise the clean toilets and the kiosk. Tips from regulars: the pay and display car park at Llyn Ogwen belongs to the national park, so members pay, and it fills quickly at weekends, so arrive early; the T10 bus from Bethesda is the alternative. Dogs on leads, because of the sheep.
