Seaton Delaval Hall, near Seaton Sluice on the Northumberland coast, is one of Sir John Vanbrugh's smallest country houses, begun in 1718 for the Delaval family, whose pranks and home theatricals earned them the name the Gay Delavals. A fire in 1822 gutted the central block, which stands as a scarred shell, while the West Wing tells the family's story through portraits and an open collections store. Outside are an Italianate parterre, a laburnum arch, the reimagined South East Gardens and the Delaval Playdium, a play area built on Baroque stage mechanics in the North West Woods. The Curtain Rises project of 2019 to 2022 reroofed the West Wing and repaired the cantilever staircases. Reviewers praise the chatty volunteers, the scented roses, the sea views and the Brewhouse Cafe in its 17th-century building. Tips from regulars: parking is free, dogs on leads are welcome in the grounds but not the buildings or Playdium, and the Central Hall and Saloon are reached by steps only.